This fly, the Ivy Pheasant Craw, was submitted by message board member, Wendy Berrell. The notes and recipe are located here.
submitted by message board member jrs – here are the details:
Pink Squirrel Variant — John Stoeckel (jrs)
Except for the tail, all of the components of this fly have been changed from the original Bethke Pink Squirrel. But it still looks like a Pink Squirrel and it certainly evolved from the Pink Squirrel. The main changes have been inspired by the European / competitive nymphing community with an emphasis on making it a hard bodied, fast sinking “anchor” fly.
Hook: European / competition style jig hook #12
Thread: standard thread in black and orange
Weight: Gold brass or tungsten bead, 1/8”
Tail: 2 strands pearl Krystal Flash, split
Body: Black Ultra Wire, size BR
Collar: UV Pink Ice Dub
1) Slide the bead on the hook.
2) Wrap the black thread back to above the barb (if there was a barb)
3) Tie in a piece of Krystal Flash at an angle to the shank. Then fold back the long end and wrap it down at an angle on the opposite side to form a “V”. Trim to length.
4) Wind the thread back to the collar area and tie in the wire. Snip the black thread. Put a layer of cement on the hook shank. Wind the wire rearward in tight, touching wraps to the base of the tail (this is easiest with a rotary vise), then wrap the wire forward in an open spiral back to the collar area.
5) Tie on the orange thread. Secure and trim the wire.
6) Dub a short, tight noodle of UV Pink Ice Dub on the thread and wrap the collar.
7) Tie a whip finish and apply a drop of cement.
1) The competition style jig hooks are available from a number of brands – Allen J100BL, Umpqua C400BL. They are a slightly longer than a TMC 3769 hook of the same size with a 60 degree bend at the eye and a wider hook gap. They are also barbless, so if you use a trailer fly, you probably want to tie it to the eye of the jig (rather than the bend) so that it doesn’t slip off.
2) As with the Copper John, you can vary the color of the wire as you like. I’ve used black, gold, and red wire. I’ve also used two colors of wire – eg, black and gold – wrapped together to get a striped effect.
Submitted by message board member, Troutchaser – who is the author of a new book, Fly-Fishing for Trout in Southeast Minnesota which can be found at www.troutchasers.net
Tequeelly Streamer . . . for big trout (or smallmouth)
Hook: 3XL streamer, sizes 2 down to 8
Bead: Copper or Gold Cone or Bead
(or you can use dumbbell eyes to ride hook-point up)
Thread: 6/0 black, tan or orange
Tail: Yellow Marabou and Black Marabou
Body: Copper Crystal Chenille or Root Beer Cactus Chenille
Legs: Medium round yellow rubber
1: Tying is pretty straight-forward. De-barb hook and slide on a cone or bead.
2: Wrap a thread base from the cone to the bend and back and then return to the
bend to tie in a clump of yellow marabou. Bind down marabou stem and fluff to the
back of the cone. Tail should be shank-length.
3: Repeat with a black clump of marabou, and then on top of the black, add a clump
of yellow marabou. Binding down along the shank gives the body some bulk.
4: Tie in the Crystal Chenille behind the cone and bind it down to the bend on top of
the hook. Take the thread back to a 1/3rd point (above the hook point).
5: Wrap the Crystal Chenille to this 1/3rd point and clip a heavy hackle pliers to it so
it stays put.
6: Take two 2” lengths of rubber, bend around thread, and tie on together loosely,
slide one to the rear side, and tighten down with two tight wraps. Advance thread
to the 2/3rd point, and then wrap the Crystal Chenille to this point, passing it
between the “X” of the rubber legs as you do so.
7: Repeat the process for a second set of legs, move the thread to just behind the
cone, and repeat the process for a third set of legs. Whip-finish twice and clip the
thread. Tweak the legs so they are horizontal and shorten the leg length if necessary.
8: Run this fly through deep holes, especially rip-rapped banks near roads, downed
trees, and other big-trout hide-outs. Dusk and dawn are always good.
Notes for tying: Tequila was involved in the creation of this streamer.
If you are using a cone, tuck a few wraps of lead inside the cone to stabilize it.
Chartreuse marabou is a good option to the yellow marabou
Reminder: Trout turn piscivorous once they are 5” long.
Submitted by message board member TFO5wt. Here are his notes:
Hook: TMC 2312 size 6
Thread: Olive Uni 8/0 (smaller thread creates better abdomen segments and it’s all superglued in the end)
Body: 2 mm thin foam (green in this case) and 2 mm thin foam (yellow) for indicator. Cut two green strips approximately width of hook gap and 1 1/4 the length of hook for under and over body. Cut a chunk of yellow the same width and 1/2 the hook length.
Legs: Back are small green foam strips (slivers really) and front are barred olive rubber legs
Wing: yellow Puglisi EP fibers (craft fur, Antron, poly, etc)
Pictures of materials, various steps, and finished views: http://imgur.com/a/Qhrg3
1. Wrap thread to bend of hook
2. Cut the last 1/4 of green foam strips in a triangle for tail. Tie both on hook bend just after end of triangle.
3. Lift up strips and wrap thread 3-4 wraps forward, then wrap secure underbody foam strip, repeat twice to form segmented abdomen with three sections. Stop just a bit forward of the half way point on hook.
4. Tie in each foam leg slivers on top of tied down underbody abdomen foam strip for back legs(these will be sandwiched between two body segments)
5. Tie in second foam strip (overbody) over foam legs
6.Tie in wing material on top of underbody/leg/overbody sandwich
7. Tie in yellow foam piece for indicator on top of wing/leg/body sandwich
8. Lift foam and wrap forward to create thorax section (roughly 2/3 the size of abdomen)
9. Tie down underbdy foam strip
10. Tie in rubber legs
11. Tie down overbody and indicator foam strips to create another foam sandwich
12. Lift remaining unsecured foam (head), wrap to the hook eye, and whip finish
13. Use a dab of superglue gel to stick three foam strips in head together. Cut to foam strips to make even head.
14. Use another dab of superglue to stick tail sections together.
15. Use a small bead of superglue on the underside to secure thread to hook.
Some notes on the bug: Overall body size can be changed (longer, fatter, slimmer, etc) without changing hook size. I also tie this in two-tone yellow underbody and green overbody, and tan. All work. Back legs create a great profile and stability. It always lands and rides correctly. When tying don’t worry about top of bug not staying completely centered on hook, just make sure underbody is not twisting and staying centered. Fish see the bottom not the top. It floats like a cork, just grease the wing from time to time. Hang on cause it gets hammered.
The “KP Slammer”. This recipe was submitted by message board member, brntrout. Here is his recipe and comments:
“The KP SLAMMER pattern is one i have been tying for over 15 years.The fly is similar to the Lightning Bug but its slightly different and i was tying this pattern before the Lightning Bug pattern came out. I call the pattern the KP SLAMMER because it uses pearl Krystal Flash and Peacock herl as its main materials which IMO, have super fish attraction qualities. A lot of the time trout really Slam this fly so that is how this pattern got it’s name.
For me it works best when tied in sizes 14 to 18 and fished when SE MN hatches are at their best. I mostly fish this pattern deep which requires weight on your tippet. It really works super well using the Leisering Lift when different mayfly species are emerging heavily.
Hook: TMC 3769 sizes 14 to 18
Thread: Black 8/0 or 6/0
Tails: 3 or 4 strands pearl Krystal Flash
Abdomen: 3 or 4 strands pearl Krystal Flash
Wingcase: A dozen or so strands pearl Krystal Flash
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Legs: 2 turns of brown hen hackle.
1.Place hook in vise.
2.Wrap black thread to bend of hook.
3. Tie in 3 or 4 strands of pearl Krystal Flash for the tails. The tail length is about 60% of hook shank length. then wrap thread about two thirds the way up the hook shank, tie off.
4. Use the same 3 or 4 strands of pearl Krystal Flash to form the abdomen area. The abdomen area should be approx.two thirds of the hook shank length. Once you wrap the pearl Krystal Flash two thirds up the hook shank tie off.
5.Tie in and secure about a dozen or so pearl Krystal Flash strands to be used as the wing case and tie off.
6.Tie in one brown hen hackle to be used for legs. The hackle should be approx.1 to 2 hook gaps in length.
7.Tie in a couple peacock herl strands and wrap forward to form the thorax area and tie off. Make sure you leave room for the thread head.
8.Wrap the brown hen hackle forward 2 turns over the thorax area and tie off.
9.Pull the pearl Krystal Flash strands used for the wingcase over the thorax area and tie off.
10 Then finish off the head area and your done.
Note: I’m sure this pattern could be tied in many different colors by simply changing the Krystal Flash color and possibility the thread and hackle colors. I’ve noticed trout at times are all over this pattern when nothing else works and at other times not quite as much. It can be a worthwhile fly to have in your arsenal.
So, tie up a few and try them out, you got nothing to lose except catching more trout when used at the right time.”
Check out the recipe and the discussion on the message board. Note there are many variations and preferences, but you can keep it simple. I’m sure I’ve got a crappy version of this nice fly around here somewhere…